sono nate!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Maria]

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Messaggio inserito da yuri

per l'acqua è meglio fare un bagnetto tiepido(30/35°) per qualche minuto,all inizio una volta al giorno , poi più dilazionato,dopo le asciughi e le rimetti nel terrario.l'alimentazione è la stessa degli adulti basta dare inizialmente le foglie più tenere perche le mangiano facilmente e con voracità

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Perfetto, Yuri, una conoscienza molto buona!

Yours truly, Marco

[Maria]

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Messaggio inserito da Tortugo

Tantissimi auguri anche da parte mia....comunque volevo dirti che sui tempi di incubazione ci siamo, anche le mie sono schiuse dopo 90 giorni. Per quanto riguarda l'acqua...hai proprio ragione, ne combinano di tutti i colori quando gli metti l'acqua. Anch'io do loro da bere un giorno si e uno no, massimo due. Occhio anche all'alimentazione e lle lampade uva-uvb che usi, hanno bisogno di ottime lampade e di qualche integratore. Comunque danno troppe soddisfazioni sono davvero la fine del mondo...c'è da divertirsi con i piccoli di pardalis. Ancora auguri
Davide

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I would like to add something regarding water availability in G. pardalis now. Leopard Tortoises like to bathe in very hot weather. The depth should be calculated taking the size of your tortoise into account. They push their heads well under water to drink. Water should be changed daily, more often if soiled by food or faeces.
A large percentage of the population don’t think tortoises require much water. They however do drink large volumes & they also like to bathe. Soaking for hatchlings is very important to keep them hydrated. They absorb the water through their skin. Remember not to go too deep on your pond for hatchlings and juveniles. Approximate depth, is to top of the marginals. This is cause they are clumsy and topple over easily, often drowning.
Cordiali saluti, Marco

[Maria]

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Messaggio inserito da AleeHali

Complimenti, davvero un lieto evento!
Tienici aggiornati su quello che succederà nei prossimi giorni...

Sull'incubazione delle Pardalis (e probabilmente su quella di tante altre tartarughe) c'è moltissimo da scoprire e riscrivere; di recente ho visto covate portate per un certo periodo ad 11° (sì, UNDICI gradi), temperatura insospettabile per una africana, che si sono schiuse molto più velocemente di della norma.

Ciao, e ancora complimenti!

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Right notice, caro Allesandro,
they can bear very low outside temperatere, due this species is very strong. It means, the eggs will not stop incubation process in low temperatures, and anult ones could survive on low temperatere, too, especially G. pardalis pardalis. On very low incubation temperature, we are having record in total incubation time of 387 days!!!, what is realy very strange!

[Maria]

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Messaggio inserito da luca1988

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Messaggio inserito da Luca-VE

Wow, these pardalis are wonderful.

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Si,bellissime!Quando sono arrivate stavano tutte bene?

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Animals on attached photos were imported to Czech Republic by side of one good friend of mine over there. Exporter from Uganda was Kiwanuka Samuel, very serious man, delivering specimens under "R" (ranched) source. Due to very expensive freight charges, to reduce total weight of animals, he was pressed to reduce food availability to them at least 3 weeks before the delivery time.
It is usual practice in big size Tortoise's export, and of course, it will do nothing well to animals. Their body weight is reducing, with bad consequences on their health sometime.
So, independing Mr. Kiwanuka is keeping Tortoises well, and he is delivering healthly Tortoises, inside of the shipment appeared on attached photos, one male of weight less than 5 kgs died two days after arrival. All other arrived well, and should be well till now!

[Maria]

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Messaggio inserito da geopardalis

marco,
dopo quanto ho letto, mi sento ancora più privilegiato ad allevare le mie tarta....
spero di vederle presto grandi come quelle delle foto....
sai dirmi quanti anni avevano?

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I have got information from Czech Republic (this guy offered some of imported G. pardalis to me, too!), he received animals in the age of 6 - 16 years old (i.e. different size and age), some of them in breeding condition (few females laid eggs after arrival!).
It could be the truth, due a very long-lived animal, the Leopard Tortoise is seldom sexually mature until it is between the ages of 12 and 15 years (in wild, of course). Captive Leopard Tortoises, however, grow faster and may be sexually mature as young as 5 years of age as earliest. But, most of them take 7 to 10 years to reach sexual maturity though. Then, after mating, females will lay 5 to 20 eggs in a clutch, with about one to three clutches a year, what is depending on their exact age.
So, you will surely get better and better result with your Leopard from year to year, I am sure in it!
Yours truly, Marco

[Maria]

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Messaggio inserito da anto

Però fa sempre un certo effetto vederle tutte ammassate li così!

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Yes, of course, caro amico. But, they are very stong animals, and it will surely do nothing bad against them, and surely will not destroy them.
The main problem in delivery of big size Tortoises are high freight charges. It is the same in all giant Tortoises species, as G. nigra, D. dussumieri, G. sulcata and big size G. pardalis!
To reduce high freight charges, both importers and exporters are trying to stop regular feeding of animals for some weeks, and make delivery after that.
Of course, in very healthly animals, reduced food will make no significant problems, and they will arrive to final destinatio in good health and condition. Otherwise, if animals under reduced nutrition is having some health problem, this animals will surely have additional troubles during and after transport and climate change, and it could be fatal to him!

[Maria]

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Messaggio inserito da DelorenziDanilo

già anto! non è mai bello..

siccome per motivi di tempo non posso leggere tutto.. sono di allevamento o di cattura quelle bellissime tarta?

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Dear Danilo,
As I already wrote, Mr. Kiwanuka Samuel is exporting these Tortosies from Uganda on the base of legaly issued CITES export-permits, source "R" (ranched specimens).
So, he is having some enclosures for captive breed of Leopard Tortoises on "ranched" type base. It means, animals are living on outside area, semi-free, and it is good solution for captive bred Tortoises on right climate condition.
Shortly, these animals are not wild catched animals exactly, independing they come from big outside space. On attached photos we can see very good carapaces in them, as well as the whole body, too, enough different than from wild catched specimens!
Yours sincerely, Marco

[Maria]

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Messaggio inserito da Maria

[quote]Messaggio inserito da anto

Però fa sempre un certo effetto vederle tutte ammassate li così!

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Dear friend,

I am returned in this remark once more, due I would like to give some more lights on this matter now, as follows:

- yes, of course, there are some International requrements in packing of live animals organized in IATA, and both exporters and air-companies should bear these requirements strictly. But, it is not in direct corelation with current health of animals packed;

- I am personaly thinking, it should be always much important made health checks, both in young and adult Tortoises in each Tortoises bred, on each expositure of Turtles and Tortoises, before buy or sale of captive bred Tortoises (or having them as gift to somebody),
both in exporting animals at the airport of departure, or - in importing animals at the destination airport.

There are 6 easy steps to be taken for a routine check. These should be done every couples of days with hatchlings or at least once a week..

1. Check there is no shell rot or other shell damage.

2. Appetite and weight: Leopards have large appetites and eat well. Weight is a good indicator of their health. Anything greater than 10% drop in weight in a week could indicate ill health.

3. Eyes: They should be clear and both open fully. Should this not be the case and none or one open, it is usually a sign of ill health. Eyes are great early indicators to our tortoises’ health.

4. Nostrils: These need to be clear of any obstructions. A runny nose or blowing bubbles is an indication of a respiratory infection. This requires special care and medication. Do not leave it as it can cause the death of our tortoise.

5. Defecation: These should be firm, fibrous and moist. Should it not be, it may be signs of an incorrect diet or worms. Change the diet to more grasses & roughage before going to veterinarian.

6. Alertness: When they are awake they are alert and active. Hatchlings do sleep a lot like most good babies, but when awake are active, alert and eat like little pigs.

Cordiali saluti, Marco

[Maria]

Finaly, I would like to wrote something, I am following as good principles in Leopard Tortoises bred, hoping it be usable to some other breders of this Tortoises, too, as follows:

Principal Diet

Orchard grass or hay
various Grasses
Leafy greens (dandelions, clover, endive, grape leaves, mulberry leaves, etc.)
Cactus pads

Additional calcium supplementation is essential. Powdered calcium can be sprinkled all foods. It is suggested that one use calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if desired, is also recommended. In the wild this tortoise is known to gnaw upon bleached bones and to consume hyena faeces in a search for sufficient calcium.
They do not eat meat of any kind and do not require any fruit. On no account should dog/cat food be provided - these are high in protein which results in shell deformities and in the long term, in kidney disease. Fruit should be avoided at all costs too - it raises lactic acid levels in the gut and promotes intestinal parasites. Leopard tortoises do not eat any fruit in the wild.
But, of course, Leopard Tortoises requires large amounts of grasses in its diet, and it is a common mistake in captivity to feed exclusively on 'wet' kitchen food (such as lettuce, tomatoes and fruit). On the correct diet their droppings should be well formed and fibrous. Too much kitchen food leads to diarrhoea and other digestive problems and should be avoided. Studies have shown that digestion of food prepared from the kitchen takes 3-8 days, whereas natural growing food digests in 16-28 days, a much slower and more natural process which their systems are designed for. These tortoises do best on a natural high fiber diet.
Grass is a very important part of their diet and should be available in large quantities. Opuntia cactus is also excellent for leopard tortoises. It has a good calcium to phosphorus ratio and is very high in fiber. Beware in Alfalfa (Lucerne), due to high protein livel in it!!!

But, some easy available vegetables are unsuitable for G. pardalis diet. The Chenopodiacea family which includes beet greens, spinach and chard should be avoided as they contain oxalates. Oxalic acid binds with calcium to yield insoluble calcium oxalate, which cannot be absorbed by the tortoise. Avoid feeding any plants or vegetables high in oxalates especially to hatchlings and adult females ready to breed.
The Brassica family, which includes cabbage, collards, kale and broccoli can cause goiter if fed in excess because they tie up iodine - they do not contain high oxalic acid amounts like spinach and chard. Goiters caused by this are rare and the feeding of a varied diet that is not heavily based on these plants should offset this tendency.

Additional feeding

Provide additional type of food one to two times weekly if required. This encourages feeding on natural growing plants and ensures sufficient exercise and adequate nutrition. Ensure there is plentiful growing food planted all the time.
Suggested foods: Sliced cucumber, thinly sliced carrot, sliced butternut/pumpkin, sliced tomato, lettuce (small quantities), red and green sweet peppers, sliced courgettes (zucchini). This food should be offered in the early morning, and any uneaten food removed by lunchtime. A good vitamin/mineral supplement should be added to the food once a week. The odd bone and whole cuttlefish left lying in the enclosure will be chewed on, this helps keep their beak trim and provides some extra calcium.

On this place, I would like to write something abut lettuce in tortoises captive diet now, too. It is high in nitrates and is converted in the mouth into compounds that produce nitric oxide - a potent antibacterial chemical. The "disinfectant" effect of this chemical was tested and salivary production was high enough to kill even E. coli 0157 (the deadly bacterium that is so often responsible for outbreaks of food poisoning). A small trial conducted with volunteers on a trekking expedition through Nepal and Tibet showed that those who took nitrate tablets suffered less vomiting, diarrhoea and infections than the rest who did not. So often I hear people "barring" the use of lettuce or condemning it as a "bad" food. Its not all bad, and along with a good balanced diet can actually be benificial. What is NOT recommended is a diet of lettuce alone as this will not provide all the nutrients your tortoise needs.

Warmest regards, Marco

[geopardalis]

grazie mille marco.......

[anto]

Un anima buona che fa una rapida sintesi cè????

[geopardalis]

anto... marco ci ha illustrato in maniera dettagliata la corretta alimentzione ed il corretto mantenimeto delle pardalis in cattività, dilungandosi poi sui tempi di maturazione sessuale e le differenze con gli animali di cattura....

[giuli@]

mi interesserebbe...ma che voglia di tradurre tutto!

[Maria]

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Messaggio inserito da geopardalis

grazie mille marco.......

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You are welcome, Sir!

[anto]

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Messaggio inserito da geopardalis

anto... marco ci ha illustrato in maniera dettagliata la corretta alimentzione ed il corretto mantenimeto delle pardalis in cattività, dilungandosi poi sui tempi di maturazione sessuale e le differenze con gli animali di cattura....

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Rapido e sintetico, grazie mille Guido!